BCY make a D-loop rope called BCY #24 – that is the rope to use and reef knots are the knots you’ll be using. Look closely at this picture – notice the reef knots are tied so the loop exits from opposite sides of your bow string. This way there is no torque and twisting issues. The knots face in opposite directions. This prevents the loop from twisting around the string. Tying opposing reef knots is a critical part of correctly tying the D-loop.
Start with 6 inches of D-loop rope and fray one end 1/8th of an inch. Light this end with match or lighter and let it melts to form a mushroom or button shaped plug end. Tie the top, arrow locating knot first. Tie it tight, and so the melted end is hard up against the body of the knot. Melting button ends to the D-loop string so the loop will never let go is another critical part of correctly tying the D-loop.
Use a bow square to find your nok location and adjust the top knot so the underside of this knot locates your nok correctly.
Ideally, use D-loop pliers to complete the second knot. This way you get that perfect pre-tensioned 5/8in loop with a 1/4in ID. With D-loop pliers, the loop is tied around the pliers, actually holding them to the bow string. The act of pre-tensioning releases the pliers as well as forming a perfect D-loop. If you need to make a running repair in the bush, the only choice you have is to tie a small-ish loop with the second knot knowing it will stretch ‘a bit’ when you pre-tension it.
With both knots tied, now cut the loose rope end so 1/8th of an inch sticks out from the bottom reef knot. Fray this end and melt it into button. Wetting your finger and flattening the melting end works well. Now pre-tension – D-loop pliers not only form the perfect shaped loop, but they also exert way more load on the loop than the loop will ever need to cope with. No D-loop pliers in camp? Use your Leatherman needle nose pliers. They are polished smooth and worked carefully into the loop, they will do a good job of pre-tensioning too.